Sometimes the sea is so calm that Captain Hassan Khan forgets that his ship has been trapped in the middle of a war zone for three months.

“It is really strange that, on the outside, everything seems normal, but that the people on board are not calm,” says the Pakistani sailor, who prefers not to reveal his real name.

Things may seem normal, but they certainly aren't. Khan and 20,000 other sailors have been trapped — in or near the Strait of Hormuz — as a result of the war between the United States and Israel against Iran, which began in late February.

What was once one of the world's busiest shipping lanes – used to transport a fifth of the planet's oil and gas – has come to a complete standstill, while missiles fly through the skies and mines are laid beneath the waves.

Despite this, the crew of Khan's ship has tried to maintain its usual work routine.

While no one wants to leave the ship for shore leave—which is itself rarely granted—jovial banter has given way to an anxious silence, interrupted only by the buzzing of phones. People startle at the slightest noise, even while sleeping.

“Stress is with us constantly,” says Khan. “We are all simply exhausted: both physically and mentally.”

Crosses and supplies

Even without the danger posed by missiles and mines, the 1,600 ships estimated by the International Maritime Organization (IMO) to be stranded on the wrong side of the Strait of Hormuz are unable to leave.

Days after the outbreak of war, Iran closed this narrow sea passage—the only route out of the Gulf—and refused to allow passage without its express permission.

"It's like we are trapped in a pond. There is only one way out, and that is Hormuz," explains another sailor, Captain Shafiqul Islam.

Islam, whose Bangladesh-flagged ship – the Banglar Joyjatra – is carrying some 37,000 tonnes of fertilizer bound for South Africa, has attempted to leave twice in the months since.

Both attempts were unsuccessful.

Following the announcement of a ceasefire on April 8, Islam learned that another ship had received permission from the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC) to cross. Immediately afterwards, he directed his ship towards the strategic maritime passage, accompanied by four other vessels. Shortly after, they received a warning not to continue their advance.

Nine days later, Islam tried again, as Iran had declared that the strait would be “completely open” to all commercial ships, in the context of the ceasefire between Israel and Lebanon.

However, Iran quickly reversed the decision after the United States kept its blockade of its ports in place.

By then, Islam's ship was already less than 30 nautical miles (55 km) from the strait. He had no choice but to turn around and walk away, while warnings about possible attacks continued to sound over the radio.

Exorbitant prices of supplies

Ships have moved to different ports or anchored offshore within the Gulf for safety reasons. However, the supply of food and water has now become an increasingly pressing issue.

Replenishing supplies remains possible without necessarily entering ports, as the Gulf region – especially around Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Kuwait – has well-established supply services. However, deliveries are now unpredictable.

Among all essential items, the price of water has risen the most, says Rashedul Hasan, chief engineer of the Banglar Joyjatra. "We bought about 180 tons of water for the ship two days ago. Previously, this would have cost between US$1,500 and US$2,000; now, it costs us US$11,000."

“It also seems that some food and water suppliers are trying to take advantage of the situation to make excessive profits,” says a Korean sailor who prefers to remain anonymous. He is aboard another ship.

Stranded boats will need even more water as summer approaches. The air temperature has already exceeded 30 °C in the month of May, and could reach 45 °C.

On Khan's boat, they still have food and water, "although things are more austere now." However, while they can still get beef and chicken, vegetables and lentils are difficult to come by.

Death and diplomacy

Still, Islam continues to consider itself lucky. On the second day of the conflict, his ship was just 200 meters from the Jebel Ali port in Dubai, which was the target of an Iranian attack.

Since then, Islam and his 30 crew members have lost count of the attacks they have witnessed. “Sometimes the missiles fly over one ship and other times the debris falls on the next one,” says the captain.

“Whenever the attacks lasted all night, none of us could sleep,” says Hasan, the engineer. “We have witnessed the horror and devastation with our own eyes.”

Your fear is more than justified. According to the IMO, at least 11 sailors have lost their lives – and another remains missing – in 39 verified incidents.

Tension subsided to some extent after the ceasefire, but persistent military activity in the strait serves as a reminder of its fragility.

Some sailors continue to spot drones and fighter jets, while others regularly spot warships and submarines.

"These ships use powerful spotlights. We also hear announcements through the loudspeakers. The captain says that the Iranians act like this to prevent anyone from passing," explains Sajid Masood, a Pakistani citizen who works as a cook on an oil tanker. His name has been changed.

So is there any way out for trapped sailors?

Shipping companies no doubt hope to be able to cut staff costs.

At the beginning of the war, many shipping companies offered higher salaries and additional benefits to sailors to stay on board, says Kamil, a Pakistani sailor who speaks under an assumed name.

Now, companies are facing huge losses; Therefore, they are telling their staff that anyone who wants to leave can do so, while reducing salaries and benefits, he adds.

However, what will happen next – and who will end up replacing them – is less clear.

Many sailors' contracts are about to expire and large-scale crew rotations are already significantly behind schedule.

But under the circumstances, it would be difficult to find enough personnel to crew these ships, even after the war is over.

“This crisis has highlighted how dangerous this profession can be,” says Kamil. “It is possible that many sailors will change their perception of this profession.” He is concerned that in future conflicts, access to international waterways could become a strategic weapon.

Masood, the cook, is also rethinking his career in the merchant navy, even though he barely has a month left to finish his contract.

However, before making that important decision, his only desire is to return to Pakistan and bring his family the gifts he bought in Dubai: Barbie dolls for his daughters and a toy airplane for his son.

“I thought I would be back home soon, but here we are, stranded near the Strait of Hormuz, without a clear plan for the future,” he says.

“Every day my family asks me when I will return, but I have no answer for them.”

There are some ships — about 750 since February 28, according to maritime data firm Kpler — that have managed to make their way through.

Its owners appear to have resorted to international direct diplomacy with Iran; Most of the ships come from China, India and Pakistan, says Jonathan Schroden of CNA, a nonprofit research organization based in Washington, D.C.

Apparently, they have also “paid a fee of several million dollars per ship,” he adds.

Diplomacy is now the best hope for the Banglar Joyjatra, and the Bangladesh government has been working with its owner, the Bangladesh Shipping Corporation (BSC), to ensure its departure.

However, this has also proven difficult.

BSC Director General Commodore Mahmudul Malek stated that Bangladesh had initially agreed to pay the toll demanded by Iran. But the plan was scrapped after the United States threatened to impose sanctions on any country that did so.

“Now we face a double crisis,” he says.